Housebreaking Tips for Apartment Living or Anywhere

©Valerie Young, Glenevan Welsh Springer Spaniels, Albany, Ohio

Introduction

I have housebroken two puppies in apartments. One from the first floor -- easy. One from the 15th floor -- more challenging. Some of it may have been the individual dogs, obviously, but I think that part of the problem in many city apartments is the distance between the door out of the apartment and the door to the outside. The trick to housebreaking is that dogs don't like to soil their dens, so you gradually extend the size of the "den" to include the whole house. The problem in an apartment building is that there is all of this space outside your door but still in the building. The dog doesn't spend much time there (often he's only there en route to eliminate), but he's still not supposed to "go" there.

The keys to housebreaking are to give the dog plenty of chances to go in the right place and be praised, and to minimize the ammunition available to him for an accident. This means taking him out frequently at first, and gradually stretching the time between trips.

If you have a new puppy/dog, start the housebreaking routine right away. (Sometimes even a new adult dog needs a remedial program to make it clear to him that THIS house is inside, too.) If you are reading this because you have been diligently following a housebreaking schedule with your dog and don't seem to be making progress, make an appointment with your vet. Anything from a bladder infection to a congenital defect could be holding your puppy back. (See also Warning.) Until you correct the medical problem, the puppy just can't help himself.

Frequently, female puppies seem to have an attack of "puppy vaginitis" somewhere around 16-20 weeks. The maternal antibodies have worn off, the puppy's own immune system is getting trained up, and the puppy suffers a mild vaginal infection for a week or two. The infection clears up on its own, but in the meantime, the puppy is irritated "down there" and feels she needs to "go" frequently. A backslide in housebreaking is not unusual at this time: go back to the beginning and take her out every 1 - 1.5 hours again for a week or two. The goal here is just to prevent bad habits from taking root. You will soon have your housebroken little girl back.

Housebreaking Tips:

1. Carry the dog from the apartment door to the outside door. Dogs seldom pee when they're being carried. I know this isn't easy when you also have to lock the door behind you, etc. An alternative with a similar effect for a male dog is a "cumberbund", a piece of cloth wrapped around the dog's waist and privates. Wrap it around him before he leaves the apartment, and if he "goes" he soils himself. Take it off when you arrive at a legal elimination spot.
2. Thoroughly clean any accident areas, including in the main part of the building. Your neighbors may think you're nuts for cleaning the hallway; the staff will be grateful. Use a good enzymatic odor eliminator. Nature's Miracle is often recommended. You want to remove any odor cues that might suggest "going" inside is legal.
3. Make sure the pup is getting at least one chance to go out sometime during the workday, and that he goes out every 1 - 1.5 hours when people are home (except at night, of course, when he should be in a crate). You want to make sure he has as many opportunities as possible to go in the right place and be praised, and that he has very little ammunition for an accident. The every 1 - 1.5 hours drives you nuts, but it is only for 1 - 2 weeks, then you can start stretching it by 15 - 30 minutes a week till you get to a more reasonable schedule.  If you have an "accident", back up a step and stay there for a week.
4. Don't expect a puppy to hold it for more hours than he is months old, plus one. (3 month old puppy = 4 hours max). Some puppies can do better than this. For example, Chows seem to be born with amazing bladder control. But, really, it's counterproductive to expect more. If you MUST leave the puppy for longer, do NOT leave him in a small crate where he must sit in his mess. If you confine the puppy and allow him timely opportunities to relieve himself in an appropriate place, he will "hold it" until he gets there. If you confine a puppy until he is incapable of "holding it" and force him to sit in his mess, he will learn to tolerate the mess and be very hard to housebreak. If you must leave him for longer than the guidelines, leave him in a pen with an acceptable place to "go" at one end and a place to lie at the other.
5. Don't leave a puppy every day for the whole workday. If you can't get home for even a few minutes, hire someone to do it. You are asking for troubles beyond housebreaking: barking, destruction, other signs of loneliness. Older dogs can manage it, but even they fare much better with at least a short break during the day.
6. If the problem is elimination between your door and the outside, try spending more time in the public areas of the building with the pup, if you can do it without causing an unreasonable disturbance. Wrestling and playing ball in the hall are obviously out. But, when you come in with him from a successful trip outside, do some quiet training in the lobby and the hallway. Sits, downs, stands, a little heeling, keeping your voice pleasant and the volume fairly low, and the praise low key enough that he doesn't get wild. This will also help him learn self-control in the public areas of the building, like sitting calmly waiting for and inside the elevator. The idea is for him to think of the whole building as "inside".

If your dog seems to drink all the time (and, consequently, urinate quite frequently), do NOT restrict water until the dog has been tested for medical problems, particularly for Diabetes Insipidus. A dog with this disease cannot concentrate its urine. Fatal dehydration can occur in a few hours without free access to water. (Diabetes Insipidus is different from Diabetes Mellitus, an inability to regulate blood sugar.)

I believe dogs should always have access to clean water, and always leave each of my (35 pound) dogs with a 2 quart bucket full of fresh water. Rarely do they drink much of it, but I know they would get by if an accident or natural disaster delayed my return. If your dog plays in the water and spills it everywhere, try a bottle-waterer (similar to what's used for caged rodents), or try freezing the bucket full of water so liquid will be available a little at a time.

Sample Schedule for a Housebroken Apartment Welsh

6:00 am	30 minute walk / playtime outside.
6:30 am	Breakfast. Humans get ready for work. 5 min obedience practice.
7:30 am	5 minute business trip outside. Humans leave.
noon	20 minute business trip / walk outside.
5:30 pm	30 - 60 minute walk / playtime outside.
7:00 pm	Dinner.
7:30 pm	Obedience / agility / conformation class or 10 - 15 minutes of training.
10:00 pm	Last call. 10 - 15 minute business trip outside

Apartment Welshies have some challenges, but they also have some advantages over their houseliving cousins. Socialization is almost automatic, and they typically get to go see and sniff more places and meet more people and dogs, and they always get time outside doing things with their owners, because the temptation to just open the door isn't there.

Questions from Readers and Answers from Me

1. If she starts peeing should i quickly carry her outside or let her continue her business?


If you catch her in the act of peeing, you are SO lucky! That is the PERFECT training opportunity!

When you see her squat, cry out and start moving towards her. Shout "Hey!" or "No!" once. You want to startle her. She will probably stop peeing right then because she is surprised. Pick her up as soon as you get to her and carry her outside. Don't continue yelling at her or scolding her now. Remember, you are still teaching her. The purpose of crying out is to startle her in the middle of peeing (and hopefully stop her while she still has some in her bladder), and to "mark" for her the exact moment that you started reacting. She will probably also be aware of what she was doing at that time, though she won't know why you reacted that way or what else she should have done.You certainly don't want to punish her for having stopped peeing.  (Note that I said startle, not frighten.  You want a sharp sound, not a roar.  If you scare the puppy, you may get more peeing as she tries to tell you that you are THE BOSS with submissive urination.  If your dog is very sensitive to a voice correction, skip the voice entirely and just pick her up and hustle outside.)  Carrying her is just a way to get her outside quickly and without a mess. Your attitude should be quite neutral as you carry her, no praise or punishment. When you get her outside, put her down, and stay there with her until she pees outside. If she has a very soft temperament, you may have to wait for awhile and just ignore her until she relaxes and has a pee. Remember, she knows you shouted last time she peed. She doesn't know you shouted because of WHERE she peed. Eventually, she will pee, and you should praise her. Speak to her softly and lovingly while she pees outside. This is a time for gentle, generous praise. No one can properly finish going to the bathroom if they are leaping up and down with excitement. Then give her a cookie when she has finished, if that is part of your routine. Clean the spot thoroughly when you get back inside. At this age, it is useful to keep your keys and a leash in your pocket ALL the time.

Timing is SO important in dog training. If you stop her in the middle of peeing, take her outside, and then praise her for going there, she will learn that peeing outside is much more pleasant than peeing inside. If you wait for her to finish, then take her outside, you probably won't get an immediate opportunity to praise her for doing what you want, and you may teach her that if she wants to go for a walk, she should tell you by peeing on the floor. Remember that when you interrupt her, you must carry her out. Dragging her may just leave a trail on the floor.

Thanks for your visit. (Last modified on 06/14/04)